Superfine: A Celebration of Black Style and the Enduring Spirit of the Dandy
Hello and welcome back to Style & Substance,
It’s great to continue this journey with you.
With the Met Gala fresh in our minds and the launch of Superfine: Tailoring Black Style at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, I’ve been reflecting on how fashion becomes a stage for performance, memory, and protest, particularly through the lens of Black Dandyism.
Understanding this framework allows us to truly appreciate the significance of this moment. “Black Dandyism”, as scholar Monica L. Miller defines it, is “a performance refined masculinity that challenges dominant, white, middle-class norms through meticulous attention to dress and comportment. It is a mode of self-investigation and a strategic deployment of style as a form of social commentary and resistance” (Miller, 2009, p.2).
In other words, Black Dandyism isn’t just about looking sharp, it’s a radical aesthetic strategy. Through dress, gesture, and self-presentation, Black men have historically reclaimed visibility, redefined masculinity, and challenged systems of power that have long excluded them. A strong example of this would be the jazz musicians. Their sharp suits and carefully chosen accessories mirrored the improvisational brilliance of their music. They weren’t just fashionable individuals, but rather, they were crafting a visual language that spoke volumes in a world that often sought to silence them.
The Superfine exhibition at the Met promises to bring these stories to life, showcasing the masterful tailoring and innovative designs that have been a hallmark of Black style for generations. From Savile Row-trained artisans to contemporary visionaries, the exhibition undoubtedly highlights the technical skill and creative ingenuity that have often been relegated to the margins.
And then there's the Met Gala itself. While the red carpet can sometimes feel like a world removed from the quiet artistry of a museum exhibition, this year, the theme offered a unique opportunity. To witness Black celebrities and creatives embracing the spirit of Black Dandyism on such a global stage is significant. It's a moment to celebrate the legacy and the ongoing evolution of this powerful aesthetic.
Of course, the conversation around such themes is always nuanced. Is the spectacle of the Met Gala truly the best platform to explore the depth and historical weight of Black Dandyism? Can a single exhibition fully capture the breadth and diversity of Black style? These are important questions to consider. However, what Superfine and the accompanying Met Gala theme offer is a crucial starting point. It's an invitation to delve deeper into the history of Black fashion, to acknowledge the ingenuity and resilience of Black creators, and to understand the profound significance of style as a form of self-expression and cultural affirmation.
I, for one, am eager to see the dialogues that emerge from this moment. To witness how contemporary designers and stylists interpret the legacy of Black Dandyism. And more importantly, to continue exploring how style, in its most considered and intentional forms, can be a powerful tool for shaping narratives and celebrating the richness of human experience.
If you want to delve deeper into the fascinating world of Black Dandyism, I've compiled a brief reading list below to guide your own research:
Further Reading:
Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity (Miller, 2009)
Queer Threads: Crafting Identity in Fiber (Chaich & Oldham, 2014)
Dandy Lion: The Black Dandy and Street Style (Lewis, 2017)
Dapper Dan: Made in Harlem: A Memoir (Day, 2019)
The Chiffon Trenches: A Memoir (Talley, 2020)
Ebony: Covering Black America (Porter, 2023)
Thank you for being here, and I am looking forward to speaking with you soon.
Best,
George
